We’re too caught up in the frenzied celebration of our 10th birthday to write about today's product. Check out this refurbi- uh, classic write-up.

Three On A Mismatch (February 2007):

We are greatly pleased with your progress, Little Sparrow. In our short time together, you have made great strides toward wine enlightenment. You have walked the path of Chardonnay, strolled the garden of Cabernet Sauvignon, struggled mightily with the intricacies of Pinot Noir. But these are mere fundamentals, the first stumblings of an infant. It is time to progress to more intricate, esoteric pleasures. You have learned the alphabet, Little Sparrow. Now you shall learn to read.

And your text is the Kunde Estate Trio, a collection from far off of Sonoma County’s better-trod paths. Understanding these three exotic types is an essential part of your evolution into true oenophilehood. (Incidentally, we’ve got to come up with a less clumsy word for that.)

First, drink deeply of the Vallee de la Lune 2003. An homage to the refreshing wines of the Southern Rhone, it combines Grenache, Mourvèdre, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah into a spicy, jammy, fruity blend, ideal for light dinners like white minestrone, seafood, or roasted crickets. Your tongue will eagerly wrap itself around this medium-bodied Vallee de la Lune, even if it can’t wrap itself around the name.

Elsewhere, the 2003 Barbera proves this rustic Italian-style varietal isn’t just for Umbrian farmboys anymore. It carries aromas of ripe, candied fruits on its strapping shoulders, leaving flavors of nuts, maple syrup, and spice in its wake. Serve it up with a simmering pot of herb-seasoned stew, but don’t forget to keep an eye on the flock.

And then there’s Claret, once used to treat the plague (unsuccessfully, we assume) but now just a catchall term for any blend of Bordeaux-born varietals. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with a sprinkling of Merlot, this 2002 Claret emits whiffs of black cherry, anis, and jam with notes of cedar and vanilla. Once on the tongue, it shows off its ripe black fruit, ultra-ripe cherry, and vanilla flavors, with a finish of butterscotch. Kunde calls it Claret, we call it tongue candy.

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